Bulgur Chickpea Stew (Zenkol)

What makes a Good Friday dish? In the village of Jezzine and other areas of the South, the answer is this stew. Chickpea-size balls made of a fine bulgur mixture are cooked in an onion and vinegar stew, symbolic of what was given to Christ to drink. Jamileh Nohra prepares zenkol like no one else, and she shared her stories and secrets with me.

1. Soak the chickpeas in water to cover for 10 hours. Drain, place the chickpeas in a large pot, cover with fresh water, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the chickpeas are softened and fully cooked.

2. Rinse the bulgur in a little water, squeeze well to drain, place in a bowl, and let it rest for an hour. Add the flour, season to taste with salt and pepper, and knead well to form a dough that holds together well (add a few drops of water if needed). Shape into little balls, each a bit bigger than a chickpea.

3. Finely chop the onions and garlic. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and sauté the onions and garlic until lightly colored about 10 minutes. Add to the cooked chickpeas, along with the bulgur balls. Add the vinegar, season to taste with salt, bring to a boil, and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the bulgur is well cooked. The chickpea balls should swim in a thick sauce. If it is too thin, boil over high heat until the sauce thickens. Serve hot.